Carver Skateboard Trucks C7 6.5 Surf Trucks Silver

$239.99
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Box includes front and rear trucks. Hardware and riser pads.

The Carver C7 is a Patented front truck designed to create the same fluid dynamic for a skateboard that a surfboard has in the water. What gives it this ability is the extra axis of movement provided by the truck’s rotating arm, giving the nose of the board lateral thrust, in addition to the usual rail-to rail turn. With this extra turning capacity, here the back truck becomes a pivot from which to snap turns, the way fins hold in the water while the surfboard’s rocker slides on the surface of a wave.

This dynamic also creates the much sought after ability to pump the board for speed, and is the feature unique to Carver that finally delivers on the long-promised feel of surfing a skateboard. Riding fakie is also like riding a surfboard, but backwards, where the nose feels squirrelly, and for this reason the C7 is a front truck only. The arm rotates smoothly on precision industrial thrust bearings, and is dampened by a fully adjustable, heavy-duty internal die spring that allows each rider to customize the feel of their board. But at its core, the C7 is still a skateboard truck, with a traditional hanger and standard new-school mounting hole pattern ( 2.1″, or 2 3/32″ long) that will fit any new-school skateboard deck, while preserving the original wheelbase.

Mounting Instructions

When mounting your new Carver trucks, bolt the standard truck at the tail of the board as you would any typical truck, with the kingpin and bushings facing towards the center of the board, and bolt the C7 on the nose.

Bolt the front truck to the nose of the deck with the kingpin and bushings facing inwards towards the center of the board. The rounded end of the truck with the arm bearings faces towards the front. People often ask about mounting a C7 to the back as well, but this is not very practical. The stable pivot of the back truck is an important component of the system, and without it you compromise control, like riding a surfboard without fins.

RISERS

Riser pad thickness to control wheelbite is roughly a factor of wheel diameter, so the larger the wheel, the taller the risers. There is no set formula, as everyone rides differently, so find out what works best for you.

BOARD LENGTH

Board length and shape plays an important part of the overall performance of the completed skateboard. Shorter boards are more maneuverable and pump easier, while longer boards are more stable and handle speed better. Wider boards generally provide better turn leverage than narrow boards. Trying out a few different lengths will give you a real sense of the feel between wheelbases. You can also refer to the SKATEBOARDS section of the website for descriptions of the various board lengths and their handling characteristics..

BREAK-IN

Break-in time for the bushings is usually about an hour of riding, where the slippery new bushings have a chance to wear a little and stick to the metal surfaces, reducing the range of turning travel at the extremities, controlling wheelbite and increasing spring-back and rebound. Pumping the board on the flats is a good way to break in the bushings and get a feel for the board’s handling.

ADJUSTMENTS

Adjusting the trucks can vary the overall feel dramatically. For the C7, the bolt located at the front tip that holds the arm bearings together should be tight but not binding, so it can rotate freely without play. IT DOES NOT ADJUST TENSION! Over-tightening the Pivot Bolt will prevent proper rotation of the arm, and will likely crack one or more of the Thrust Washers, requiring replacement. The Spring Bolt, located on the baseplate facing the inside of the board, adjusts the inner spring that controls tension on the arm. Using the Carver PIPEWRENCH, or any standard skate tool, play with the relationship of this tension and the tightness of the bushings for a feel that suits your style of riding. The adjustment of the back truck also plays an important part in the overall feel, so when tuning up your board, remember that it’s the other half of the whole system.

The Carver C7 was designed to be very low maintenance, but it does have a few mechanical parts, like bearings and a spring, so a little care will give you maximum performance and extend the life of your truck. A light machine oil in the thrust bearings will prevent them from rusting and keep them rotating freely, just like your wheel bearings. The spring parts are protected inside the baseplate and need little maintenance, but if they get squeaky, an application of grease on the spring parts will keep everything moving smoothly and quietly. First remove the truck from the board, then unscrew the spring bolt and slide it out and the spring parts can be easily removed. Grease all the moving parts and reassemble: place the spring nut against the inner cavity wall, drop the spring into the housing and snug it up against the nut, hook the link onto the link pin and snap it over the spring. Finally, re-insert and tighten the spring bolt, starting the threading first by hand to avoid cross threading. All maintenance can be performed using a standard skate wrench, like the Carver PIPEWRENCH. While at first glance the C7 may look complicated, it’s actually very simple to take apart and reassemble. The exploded-view drawing shows you at a glance the order and names of all the parts for quick reference.

instructions-31.jpg

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(CARVERC7SILVER)

SHIPPING COSTS

AUSTRALIA
FREE SHIPPING on all orders over $99.
$10 FLAT RATE on all orders under $99.
Express Delivery from $10.

NEW ZEALAND EXPRESS COURIER
$10 FLAT RATE or FREE SHIPPING on all orders over $199.

WORLDWIDE EXPRESS COURIER
$30 to USA/Canada/Asia and $60 to rest of the world.

All orders are dispatched promptly after you place your order.

ESTIMATED DELIVERY TIMES

Delivery times below may be affected by delays due to Covid situation.

NSW - 1 to 4 working days
ACT - 1 to 4 working days
QLD - 1 to 4 working days
VIC - 2 to 5 working days
SA - 2 to 6 working days
WA - 5 to 8 working days
NT - 5 to 9 working days
TAS - 5 to 9 working days

NZ - 2 to 4 working days
ASIA - 2 to 6 working days
USA - 3 to 7 working days
UK - 4 to 8 working days
EURO - 4 to 8 working days

PAYMENT INFO

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The Carver C7 is a Patented front truck designed to create the same fluid dynamic for a skateboard that a surfboard has in the water. What gives it this ability is the extra axis of movement provided by the truck’s rotating arm, giving the nose of the board lateral thrust, in addition to the usual rail-to rail turn. With this extra turning capacity, here the back truck becomes a pivot from which to snap turns, the way fins hold in the water while the surfboard’s rocker slides on the surface of a wave.

This dynamic also creates the much sought after ability to pump the board for speed, and is the feature unique to Carver that finally delivers on the long-promised feel of surfing a skateboard. Riding fakie is also like riding a surfboard, but backwards, where the nose feels squirrelly, and for this reason the C7 is a front truck only. The arm rotates smoothly on precision industrial thrust bearings, and is dampened by a fully adjustable, heavy-duty internal die spring that allows each rider to customize the feel of their board. But at its core, the C7 is still a skateboard truck, with a traditional hanger and standard new-school mounting hole pattern ( 2.1″, or 2 3/32″ long) that will fit any new-school skateboard deck, while preserving the original wheelbase.

Mounting Instructions

When mounting your new Carver trucks, bolt the standard truck at the tail of the board as you would any typical truck, with the kingpin and bushings facing towards the center of the board, and bolt the C7 on the nose.

Bolt the front truck to the nose of the deck with the kingpin and bushings facing inwards towards the center of the board. The rounded end of the truck with the arm bearings faces towards the front. People often ask about mounting a C7 to the back as well, but this is not very practical. The stable pivot of the back truck is an important component of the system, and without it you compromise control, like riding a surfboard without fins.

RISERS

Riser pad thickness to control wheelbite is roughly a factor of wheel diameter, so the larger the wheel, the taller the risers. There is no set formula, as everyone rides differently, so find out what works best for you.

BOARD LENGTH

Board length and shape plays an important part of the overall performance of the completed skateboard. Shorter boards are more maneuverable and pump easier, while longer boards are more stable and handle speed better. Wider boards generally provide better turn leverage than narrow boards. Trying out a few different lengths will give you a real sense of the feel between wheelbases. You can also refer to the SKATEBOARDS section of the website for descriptions of the various board lengths and their handling characteristics..

BREAK-IN

Break-in time for the bushings is usually about an hour of riding, where the slippery new bushings have a chance to wear a little and stick to the metal surfaces, reducing the range of turning travel at the extremities, controlling wheelbite and increasing spring-back and rebound. Pumping the board on the flats is a good way to break in the bushings and get a feel for the board’s handling.

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Adjusting the trucks can vary the overall feel dramatically. For the C7, the bolt located at the front tip that holds the arm bearings together should be tight but not binding, so it can rotate freely without play. IT DOES NOT ADJUST TENSION! Over-tightening the Pivot Bolt will prevent proper rotation of the arm, and will likely crack one or more of the Thrust Washers, requiring replacement. The Spring Bolt, located on the baseplate facing the inside of the board, adjusts the inner spring that controls tension on the arm. Using the Carver PIPEWRENCH, or any standard skate tool, play with the relationship of this tension and the tightness of the bushings for a feel that suits your style of riding. The adjustment of the back truck also plays an important part in the overall feel, so when tuning up your board, remember that it’s the other half of the whole system.

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This dynamic also creates the much sought after ability to pump the board for speed, and is the feature unique to Carver that finally delivers on the long-promised feel of surfing a skateboard. Riding fakie is also like riding a surfboard, but backwards, where the nose feels squirrelly, and for this reason the C7 is a front truck only. The arm rotates smoothly on precision industrial thrust bearings, and is dampened by a fully adjustable, heavy-duty internal die spring that allows each rider to customize the feel of their board. But at its core, the C7 is still a skateboard truck, with a traditional hanger and standard new-school mounting hole pattern ( 2.1″, or 2 3/32″ long) that will fit any new-school skateboard deck, while preserving the original wheelbase.

Mounting Instructions

When mounting your new Carver trucks, bolt the standard truck at the tail of the board as you would any typical truck, with the kingpin and bushings facing towards the center of the board, and bolt the C7 on the nose.

Bolt the front truck to the nose of the deck with the kingpin and bushings facing inwards towards the center of the board. The rounded end of the truck with the arm bearings faces towards the front. People often ask about mounting a C7 to the back as well, but this is not very practical. The stable pivot of the back truck is an important component of the system, and without it you compromise control, like riding a surfboard without fins.

RISERS

Riser pad thickness to control wheelbite is roughly a factor of wheel diameter, so the larger the wheel, the taller the risers. There is no set formula, as everyone rides differently, so find out what works best for you.

BOARD LENGTH

Board length and shape plays an important part of the overall performance of the completed skateboard. Shorter boards are more maneuverable and pump easier, while longer boards are more stable and handle speed better. Wider boards generally provide better turn leverage than narrow boards. Trying out a few different lengths will give you a real sense of the feel between wheelbases. You can also refer to the SKATEBOARDS section of the website for descriptions of the various board lengths and their handling characteristics..

BREAK-IN

Break-in time for the bushings is usually about an hour of riding, where the slippery new bushings have a chance to wear a little and stick to the metal surfaces, reducing the range of turning travel at the extremities, controlling wheelbite and increasing spring-back and rebound. Pumping the board on the flats is a good way to break in the bushings and get a feel for the board’s handling.

ADJUSTMENTS

Adjusting the trucks can vary the overall feel dramatically. For the C7, the bolt located at the front tip that holds the arm bearings together should be tight but not binding, so it can rotate freely without play. IT DOES NOT ADJUST TENSION! Over-tightening the Pivot Bolt will prevent proper rotation of the arm, and will likely crack one or more of the Thrust Washers, requiring replacement. The Spring Bolt, located on the baseplate facing the inside of the board, adjusts the inner spring that controls tension on the arm. Using the Carver PIPEWRENCH, or any standard skate tool, play with the relationship of this tension and the tightness of the bushings for a feel that suits your style of riding. The adjustment of the back truck also plays an important part in the overall feel, so when tuning up your board, remember that it’s the other half of the whole system.

The Carver C7 was designed to be very low maintenance, but it does have a few mechanical parts, like bearings and a spring, so a little care will give you maximum performance and extend the life of your truck. A light machine oil in the thrust bearings will prevent them from rusting and keep them rotating freely, just like your wheel bearings. The spring parts are protected inside the baseplate and need little maintenance, but if they get squeaky, an application of grease on the spring parts will keep everything moving smoothly and quietly. First remove the truck from the board, then unscrew the spring bolt and slide it out and the spring parts can be easily removed. Grease all the moving parts and reassemble: place the spring nut against the inner cavity wall, drop the spring into the housing and snug it up against the nut, hook the link onto the link pin and snap it over the spring. Finally, re-insert and tighten the spring bolt, starting the threading first by hand to avoid cross threading. All maintenance can be performed using a standard skate wrench, like the Carver PIPEWRENCH. While at first glance the C7 may look complicated, it’s actually very simple to take apart and reassemble. The exploded-view drawing shows you at a glance the order and names of all the parts for quick reference.

instructions-31.jpg

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This dynamic also creates the much sought after ability to pump the board for speed, and is the feature unique to Carver that finally delivers on the long-promised feel of surfing a skateboard. Riding fakie is also like riding a surfboard, but backwards, where the nose feels squirrelly, and for this reason the C7 is a front truck only. The arm rotates smoothly on precision industrial thrust bearings, and is dampened by a fully adjustable, heavy-duty internal die spring that allows each rider to customize the feel of their board. But at its core, the C7 is still a skateboard truck, with a traditional hanger and standard new-school mounting hole pattern ( 2.1″, or 2 3/32″ long) that will fit any new-school skateboard deck, while preserving the original wheelbase.

Mounting Instructions

When mounting your new Carver trucks, bolt the standard truck at the tail of the board as you would any typical truck, with the kingpin and bushings facing towards the center of the board, and bolt the C7 on the nose.

Bolt the front truck to the nose of the deck with the kingpin and bushings facing inwards towards the center of the board. The rounded end of the truck with the arm bearings faces towards the front. People often ask about mounting a C7 to the back as well, but this is not very practical. The stable pivot of the back truck is an important component of the system, and without it you compromise control, like riding a surfboard without fins.

RISERS

Riser pad thickness to control wheelbite is roughly a factor of wheel diameter, so the larger the wheel, the taller the risers. There is no set formula, as everyone rides differently, so find out what works best for you.

BOARD LENGTH

Board length and shape plays an important part of the overall performance of the completed skateboard. Shorter boards are more maneuverable and pump easier, while longer boards are more stable and handle speed better. Wider boards generally provide better turn leverage than narrow boards. Trying out a few different lengths will give you a real sense of the feel between wheelbases. You can also refer to the SKATEBOARDS section of the website for descriptions of the various board lengths and their handling characteristics..

BREAK-IN

Break-in time for the bushings is usually about an hour of riding, where the slippery new bushings have a chance to wear a little and stick to the metal surfaces, reducing the range of turning travel at the extremities, controlling wheelbite and increasing spring-back and rebound. Pumping the board on the flats is a good way to break in the bushings and get a feel for the board’s handling.

ADJUSTMENTS

Adjusting the trucks can vary the overall feel dramatically. For the C7, the bolt located at the front tip that holds the arm bearings together should be tight but not binding, so it can rotate freely without play. IT DOES NOT ADJUST TENSION! Over-tightening the Pivot Bolt will prevent proper rotation of the arm, and will likely crack one or more of the Thrust Washers, requiring replacement. The Spring Bolt, located on the baseplate facing the inside of the board, adjusts the inner spring that controls tension on the arm. Using the Carver PIPEWRENCH, or any standard skate tool, play with the relationship of this tension and the tightness of the bushings for a feel that suits your style of riding. The adjustment of the back truck also plays an important part in the overall feel, so when tuning up your board, remember that it’s the other half of the whole system.

The Carver C7 was designed to be very low maintenance, but it does have a few mechanical parts, like bearings and a spring, so a little care will give you maximum performance and extend the life of your truck. A light machine oil in the thrust bearings will prevent them from rusting and keep them rotating freely, just like your wheel bearings. The spring parts are protected inside the baseplate and need little maintenance, but if they get squeaky, an application of grease on the spring parts will keep everything moving smoothly and quietly. First remove the truck from the board, then unscrew the spring bolt and slide it out and the spring parts can be easily removed. Grease all the moving parts and reassemble: place the spring nut against the inner cavity wall, drop the spring into the housing and snug it up against the nut, hook the link onto the link pin and snap it over the spring. Finally, re-insert and tighten the spring bolt, starting the threading first by hand to avoid cross threading. All maintenance can be performed using a standard skate wrench, like the Carver PIPEWRENCH. While at first glance the C7 may look complicated, it’s actually very simple to take apart and reassemble. The exploded-view drawing shows you at a glance the order and names of all the parts for quick reference.

instructions-31.jpg


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